Kampai!

Sushi.....

That delectable, addictive, strangely textured creation made from seasoned rice, seaweed, and... fermented fish. That's right, I said "FERMENTED fish". Can you think of something that would put you off more than that? I'm waiting....

I don't know about you, but when I sit down to a sushi bar, there are two things I am concerned with. The first is obvious: the quality of the fish, a subject I will delve into another time. The second is the rice... actually put this one first, because honestly, there is nothing worse than a good piece of fish ruined by the crunchy, soggy, sticky, flavorless, overly vinegared ideas of properly cooked rice that I have come across in my sushi eating experiences. This is precisely why I stick with one place I like rather than experimenting with new places because friends or colleagues swear by their personal favorite place.

The fact that Sushi Apprentices spend the great majority of their training learning how to cook this rice and sleeping on the floor of the kitchen until they get it right should be testament to the importance of this intrinsic part of this cuisine... besides, the word "sushi" actually means "vinegared rice", and was used to help preserve fish that had been salted and pressed for a number of months in barrels(yummy!). The fish was consequently covered in the rice until ready to be eaten so as to help prevent further oxidation. This method of preserving fish is still used in japan and is considered a delicacy called "narezushi". Let me know what you think of it when you try it cuz I ain't going near it.

What developed from narezushi are two the two styles of sushi we are familiar with now: Kansai and Edo. Kansai style involves mixing seasoned rice with other ingredients which is then formed into decorative creations which are pleasing to the eye and definitely to the palate. Maki Rolls would fall into this category of Sushi (although the new-wave rolls we see now, cream cheese filled and deep fried, may need to fall into a category all their own... maybe Bastardized American Krazy-zushi?). Edo style based primarily on the fish, since Tokyo (the present-day name of Edo) sits on the edge of the ocean and has the widest variety and availability of seafood. Edo style is what we call "nigirizushi" or "finger sushi"; the familiar slice of fish over a wad of rice.

There is one more thing I pay more attention to when eating at a sushi bar... and yes... I ALWAYS sit at the bar because I can see the personal sanitation habits of the person preparing me raw fish. Say what you will... but I have boycotted many a sushi bar I've tried due to having seen horrifically poor sanitation.... (and for those of you that know me, you may laugh now...but forever hold your piece... I am NOT dying of germs).

The art of sushi, I believe, lays not only in how well the sushi is made, but also the order in which it is presented to me. If it is served all on one platter or a boat, consider it the last time I will eat at that sushi bar. I like my sushi to be artfully thought out and served to me like a flight of fine wines... in an order that makes sense. Why would I destroy my pallate with sticky sweet Unagi sauce before tasting Hamachi. Or eat Mackerel before Maguro? Makes no sense.
This is precisely the reason that I can be seen many nights sitting at the sushi bar at Boulder's legendary Sushi Zanmai directly in front of the master... Kenzai himself.... the good natured, smiling, sushi chef extraordinaire that is like a Master Sommelier...of Sushi.

I am a sushi purist.... nigiri sushi, salmon skin handroll, and a tamago (sweetened egg omelet) for desert. That's all I need. Except maybe a breath mint when I'm through.